Ladakh is a mountaineer's delight with several mountain ranges
all across the region. The most famous and easily accessible
is the Stok Khangri massif - a part of the Zanskar Mountains
to the south of Leh. The base camp for the various peaks of
this massif is about 4 days trek from the villages of Stok or
Spituk. Among its known peaks, Stok Khangri (6,150m) is the
most famous among the tourist. It offers a spectacular view of
Indus valley and Karakoram Range. Other peaks in the area
include Golaib Khangri (5,900m) adjacent to Stok Khangri,
Matho West (5,950m) and many unnamed peaks in the same range.
The Kang-yatsey peak (6,400m) lies in the
southeast of Leh and it is reached by the famous nine-day
Markha valley trek. There are many other peaks around Kang-yatse
at the altitude ranging between 5,500 and 6400m.
The Nun Kun massif in the great Himalayan
ranges is easily accessible from Kargil-Padum road. Approach
to the base camp is relatively easy. It is considered one of
the most attractive climbing destinations in the great
Himalayas. Among its six known peaks accessible from Suru
valley Nun (7,135m) and Kun (6963m) are the highest summits.
Stok Peak Climbing
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Day 01 Leh to Stok to Mankarmo;
Morning drives to Stok village that takes around 15 kms
from Leh, Start walking from the trekking point through the
valley from left bank of the river. It's an easy but very
long walk through the valley to Mankarmo. There are many
shepherd camps in the different entrance of the sub valleys.
The Mankarmo Camp is at the point from where the valley
turns southward. It is possible to trek up to the first base
camp but to get acclimatize, it is recommended to make it in
two days. There won't be any problem in going all the way to
base camp if you are fully acclimatized. The Camp at
Mankarmo is on the riverbed without any toilet facilities.
Day 02 Mankarmo to Base Camp;
Keep walking in the same direction for around 30 minutes
and then head towards south. Scramble along the tributaries
passing through a few shepherd camps on the other side of
the river. The base camp is reached after vertical ascend
but there is no toilet facilities. Take care of your food
and cloths from animal around. Evening, you can walk up to
the advance base camp for acclimatization. The trail leads
you towards west and then southward from the top of the
hill. You will be passing through a few glaciers before you
reach advance base camp from where you start crossing the
Day 03 Base Camp to summit to Base
Keep your torch and other climbing gears ready for early
morning start. You should start at least by 4 am but it will
be dark when you start in the morning. It will be light by
the time you reach advance base camp. It will be ideal to
wait till there is a light enough to see the craves clearly.
Start crossing the glacier towards southeast and then climb
the peak to the western side. There are two ways to go up,
one from the left side of the glacier which is more
technical and the right side trail is easier with steps of
rocks. You can scramble back to the base camp from the same
way you had climbed.
Day 04 Base Camp to Stok to Leh
An early start is recommended as it is long descent to
Stok village and drive back from Stok to Leh.
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The best climbing season extends from mid
May to mid October. Foreign climbing expeditions are required
to obtain permission from the Indian Mountaineering
Foundation, which ensures safe mountaineering by allowing
limited numbers at one time. You should give at least six
months notice before leaving for an expedition.